Josep Fonoll has owned and managed the pharmacy since 1982 and I was meeting him today. As I arrived, I peered through the door and saw him at the back counter with a customer, so I lingered outside for a while until he became free.
The whiplash curves of the Modernista style are immediately recognisable in its facade which is inspired by nature, particularly in the curvy woodwork of the central door and windows that sit either side of the door.
This Art Nouveau style (known as Modernista in Spanish) blossomed in the late 1800s and very early 1900s. It was a time in architecture, art and design when showy organic asymmetrical lines and details were encouraged. This aesthetic was especially fashionable with pharmacy design. The style embraced all of the arts and so you often see it not just in the architecture, but in the glassware, furniture, ceramics, ironware and in the interior design of these pharmacies.
Fonoll Pharmacy dates back to the early 16th century and is considered as being the oldest pharmacy in Barcelona. It started life in the Ciudadella part of the city with its original owner Doctor Padrell, one of the pharmacists whose name graces the facade. In the early 1700s, it moved to where it is now after the area was demolished to make way for a military citidal after the siege of Barcelona. It passed through many owners until 1894 when the owner of that time, Doctor Josep Escudé renovated the pharmacy with a team of master craftsmen in the Modernista style that we can see today.
At number 52, I arrived at the Ray of Sunshine. This Modernista Pharmacy is very ornamental compared to its neighbouring, more functional looking shop fronts and does look a little out of place. All the same, it seems to whisper I was here first, with it's stained glass sun's rays quietly continuing to radiate across its tympanum.
This narrow street-for-feet comes off Via Laietana, one of the busy arteries of the city that runs down towards the port. Though still very much a part of central Barcelona, Calle Més Baix feels to me like the beginning of a neighbourhood where the shops are less touristy and more connected to modern daily life. On my way to the Pharmacy, I passed a local community centre, a green grocers and one of those indoor bazaars that sells just about everything. I don't remember seeing any Barcelona magnets nor did I notice any children's spotted flamenco shoes.
Attention grabbing modern packaging, and adverts of pharmaceutical products dominate the shop windows. Climbing up behind them are sinuous plant forms in stained glass. The yellow and orange hues of the tympanum glass above continue here and are joined by leafy greens, with red, cream and bluey-violet blossoms -enchanting. Above it all sits Josep's shop sign, Farmacia Fonoll, echoing the same font style as the Padrell lettering. Coincidentally, Fonoll means Fennel in Catalan ... with fennel being a medicinal herb brimming with antioxidants, magnesium and potassium, I think it's a great name for a pharmacist.
When I'd originally spoken with Josep to arrange the meeting, he explained that the historical aspect of his pharmacy was not really of much interest to him (I appreciate his honesty). Josep was still happy to meet however. As we talked, it was clear that from his point of view, having his pharmacy in this iconic building has proved limiting for the development of the business. Under a special plan that exists for the protection of iconic establishments in Barcelona, there are three categories of protection. Categorisation depends on different criteria including the age and condition of the building. This pharmacy is in the E2 category, as its an establishment that has conserved many but not all of its elements. (To give you a reference point, the restaurant Els Quatre Gats is in the E1 category). From a heritage point of view this initiative is re-assuring. The flip side of this protection of course, is that in Josep's business there are restrictions as to what can be updated.
Inside the pharmacy, the stained glass artwork is less interrupted and I could see its details much more clearly. The blossoms are in fact iris flowers. (I have read that iris plants have been used for centuries in medicinal treatments). From here, Josep was able to show me the signature of the glass designer Joan Aspinagosa etched in the corner of one of the windows. Aspinagosa was a specialist in hand painted and acid engraved glass during the Modernista period in Barcelona.
Engraved wooden cabinets rising to almost the full height of the interior, line the pharmacy's rectangular space. Any apothecary bottles containing medicinal concoctions that may have occupied their shelves once upon a time are no longer present. These days, as you would expect, a wide range of coherently organised modern medicines, supplements, and health and beauty products inhabit them.
This beautifully illustrated frieze is an important decorative element of the whole space and brings an energy to the pharmacy.
Running around the top of these coffee coloured cabinets is a pale yellow frieze painted with illustrations of medicinal plants, each one with its scientific name. Some were unknown to me, others I'd heard of but knew little about, so later on I did some light investigating.
Keeping our heads up high, Josep brought my attention to the elaborate wrought iron ceiling lamp hanging in the centre. Embellished with forest-green stained glass, roses and three leaf clovers, it won a design award in the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition. Art Nouveau artists loved the clover leaf motif. Traditionally, it's a symbol of faith, hope and glory (and also luck if you add the fourth leaf). It held plenty of weight pharmaceutically speaking too, as a cleanser and being rich in nutrients. You'll also see it featured across the highly ornamental ironwork of the pharmacy's entrance - both inside and out - in the brackets, hinges and door handles.
Tucked away in one of the corners is a chapel-like niche occupied by a statue of the Madonna with the baby Jesus. It's scallop shelled half-domed top fits well with the other nature-inspired features of the space. I've encountered lots of shrines like these in Spanish domestic architecture - in fact, we have a stone statue of the Madonna set into our porch wall at home. These Roman Catholic statues were seen as significant in blessing a place and for somewhere to focus prayers. In the pharmacy, a place full of healing remedies for the body, the Madonna's presence probably helped to heal the spirit.
Belladonna is one that appeared (you might know it as Deadly Nightshade). I already knew that it is a really toxic plant - if you're poisoned with it and you're lucky, you might escape with only delirium and hallucinations. In highly diluted quantities though it has been used for mild sedation, for treating pain and for inflammation. An interesting fact - in the past, it was also used as a beauty tonic, specifically to dilate women pupils and to redden their skin - this explains why it's name translates to beautiful woman. Also featuring on this frieze of fame is Ricinus Communis, also known as the Castor Bean plant. As you can probably guess, it's the source of caster oil but it does have plenty of medicinal properties too. Apparently, this perennial has been used as a natural laxative for over 2000 years. Amongst many other benefits, it also has moisturising properties and is a very good remedy for dandruff. Though this plant is called a bean, don't let this fool you as it is in no way related to the beans that we're familiar with - a relief, as it too is very toxic. My last one is the Adonis Verbalise (or Pheasant's Eye). This herb is from the buttercup family and its flower looks just like one you might draw as a child. The cuteness doesn't end there - it's flower also turns constantly toward the sun (just as the sunflower does) and closes every night. Also, the flower's black centre, dotted with orange and yellow, really does resemble a pheasant's eye. This is where its cuteness does end though, as like the others, it's really poisonous. Medically speaking, the Adonis Vernalis has been commonly used as a sedative, for heart conditions, cramps, fever and also low blood pressure. It's a surprise (and a paradox) to find that many poisonous plants like these are the sources of many medicines.
Fonoll Pharmacy is on Calle Més Baix 52 in Barcelona
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